|
|
Strathconon |
|
Section
12 879 Sgumain
Coinntich Section
11 |
 Thomas Telford's kirk. Strathconon. (The usual starting point for Sgurr a' Mhuillin.)
|
Remote, relatively featureless, An Sidhean , by many is left to the fairies. For those who do make the effort this hill will provide a fine wilderness experience, both on the hill and through the wild glens that lead towards it.
An Sidhean is famed in the literature as the hill bypassed by Hamish Brown en route to Maol Lunndaidh on a good day, only to give him a drubbing on his next visit. The thought of a hooly up on that vast plateau is quite unpleasant so don't repeat the mistake. The hill also features in Isolation Shepherd.
Like many of the hills in Section 12, An Sidhean is best taken in on a backpacking trip. It is well provisioned with pony tracks and is well situated near some important passes. This approach negates the need to get back to the Struy gate for the five o'clock curfew, if approaching from that direction. Day trippers can get in via Glen Strathfarrar, via the locked gate or from Loch Beannacharan in Strathconon. Stravaigers have Glen Orrin, and Glean Fhiodhaig as alternatives.
As mentioned previously the paths hereabouts are very good. When Loch Monar was raised in the late '50s the old track up Strathmore was rebuilt above the loch and prvides a fast route in from the dam. Older but still fine paths approach from Strathconon and Glen Orrin. As usual care should be taken with river crossings, the Meig in particular can present an obstacle in 'traditional' weather. In the wet the Monar approach is sure, the burns are bridged.
It was towards the end of a week wandering around my favorite 1:50000 sheet when I walked over the sprawling plateau. Like many I had combined an ascent of An Sidhean with Bac an Eich. Starting from Achnasheen we used the path over to Scardroy and onto the range between Glen Orrin and upper Strathconon. Returning to the packs after Bac an Eich the prospect of doing An Sidhean did not appeal. Through gaps in the mist all that could be seen were Cheviot standard peat bogs, with the spaced contours on the OS map it looked that prospects were not good. Remembering Hamish's experience and with the prospect of getting a far flung corbett encouraging us we slid into the mist , and bog , on to the three mile traverse to the summit.
Crossing the plateau, en route to the summit of An Sidhean.
We need not have worried the going soon proved to be fast grassland, interspersed with stony patches. As we crossed the 768m bump the mist had gone, not that An Sidhean, all foreground and hemmed in by bulky hills is ever going to be a great viewpoint, but the big sky was impressive.
Our route off was to catch the Clach a Chomharraidh pass and Glen Dubh pony track so as to get to the foot of Sgurr na Lapaich for the last day over to Glen Cannich via two wanted Munros. The Glen Dubh tack was showing signs of disuse, but the Monar side track was a revelation. Cut only thirty years previously it followed a gentle switchback above the dark waters. At the final pull over a pass to Monar Lodge we found ourselves amongst stags, this must have been a winter feeding spot. Vast rafts of driftwood were on the scarred shores of the loch. Wood beyond the dreams of bothymongers. At the Lodge tar was met and a good road followed up to the power station in Gleann Inis an Loichel where there are fine pitches beside the river.
It was May, but the height of Sgurr na Lapaich ensured a fine winter day on the walk up the aptly named Garbh Choire and over the Sgurr to the Mullardoch Dam. Lugging a pack was a small price to pay for such a fine crossing of this neglected corner of the Highlands.
Bac an Eich rises in two tiers from Loch Beannacharain at the head of Strathconon. It is surrounded by good stalker's paths and provides not to strenuous an outing from the end of the long single track road up Strathconon. From any other direction it's a long way. A bealach to the south-west provides the means to combine this hill with an ascent of An Sidhean, this is also the easiest route on to the hill. To the east the map suggests an entertaining route via Sgurr Toll Lochain, above the corrie lochan.
I have little information on this hill. My visits to the area have always coincided with thick weather, and there are few references to this hill in the literature. It's an area for the explorer.
Like many before me I was to visit Bac an Eich on a through route. The glens all line up very conveniently hereabouts and this is a superb area for backpacking. It is also a good area for other sports and you are assured of seeing vast herds of deer. The birdlife also makes for an interesting visit. A wide and fast track runs from the Jacobites M.C. hut at Inver near Achnasheen to Scardroy, if using the train this opens up a lot of possibilities and brings the remote head of Strathconon easily within reach. Between Strathconon and Strath Bran is a vast area of heather and bog, this track makes ease of this, and is obviously a once well used route, perhaps by drovers bound for Glen Orrin and beyond.
After a pleasant evening beside a waterfall on the Coire Mhoraigein path, the ascent was made in thick cloud. The pack was left at the pass with my long suffering wife, Frances, who has no bagging tendencies, and I quickly made my way up grassy slopes to the trig point. I imagine the view is very fine. I must return to confirm this. A rapid descent was made following a compass needle, scattering deer. The rest of the day was spent walking out to the Monar dam via An Sidhean, in rapidly improving weather.
Sgurr a' Mhuillin 879m
The Sgurr a Mhuillin group seen across Strath Bran from Meall a'Chaoruinn
Sgurr a Mhuillin is a surprising hill. It is a massive complex of five peaks, far to the east of well kent hill country. It looks too big and important a hill not to be in Munro's tables and must cause some puzzlement to folk trying to identify their view. It mystified me, when crossing Strath Bran on my first trip to the north, when I saw the barrel like Sgurr a' Glas Leathaid across the boggy wastes. My driver, being a Munro bagger was none the wiser, and it was not until buying the district guide and sheet 25 that I was able to identify the hill. Sgurr a Mhuillin is Strath Bran's hill and is a major landmark from the Kyle Line, but never make the mistake of climbing it from here. There are many miles of heather and bog, and now a few plantations in the way, that is if you can pass the moat of the River Bran. Instead visit Strath Conon, few do, and take to the steeper slopes to the south. A round of all the tops, including the two Corbetts will give a good long day. Better to look down upon the bogs of Bran.
Assuming that the single track road into Strathconon has been found, the best starting point for the hills is the Telford Church at 292539, here can be found parking and a natural focus for ridges running to the east of the hills. The church is one of 32 throughout the Highlands built to a budget of £1500. Originally it would have had four windows on either side , here two have made way for a door, but it is still recognisable as a Telford Kirk. Look for the one at Lochluichart next time you pass through.
It was one of those mild and damp April days when I tried my hand at these blue remembered hills. Having traversed Meallan nan Uan from the kirk it was a simple slog up Sgurr a Mhuillin. In that weather the temptation to miss the northern tops was irresistible and the trig point was soon left for the steep East ridge. Notice there are no illustrations of these hills on this page, one day!
The hanging valley of the Allt an -t-Strathain Mhoir is a guaranteed deer sanctuary and should be avoided at the appropriate time of year, it is also a peat sanctuary so I was glad to pick up an all terrain track leading to steeper dryer ground and back to the kirk. The plantation shown on the map has been felled, but the fence is best avoided.
Although still damp, I rounded off the day with a quick visit to Cnoc Mor above Strathpeffer. Got lost on that one. Should have gone out to Sgurr a Choire Ranaich after all.
This is a fine spike of a hill, now 2 metres lower than on the last map, but no less of a hill. It tends to be overshadowed by its bit neighbour but has more to offer. Ascents are usually made by the east ridge, steeply up from the kirkyard onto Creag Ruadh and up the narrow but easy ridge to the sharp top. Southern slopes plunge into forested Glen Meinich. A route can be found here, over Creag Ghlas to come at both the Corbetts from the west. Creag Ghlas has some fine rockclimbing on the slabby south west face, I expect there are few polished holds and its VS upwards territory, enjoy!
My traverse towards Sgurr a' Mhuilin went easily but some devotion to the compass needle was required. I was blessed with a brief view of the floe studded Loch Choire a' Mhuillin. I will try to return to these hills in better visibility. The view to the north and west must be rather special, certainly the spire of Meallan nan Uan has added to a few views itself. Look out for it when travelling up Strathconon, or from Achnasheen. I bet a few Munrobaggers have scratched their heads trying to work out what it is.
These hills are described in 'The Conon Corbets', H M Brown Climber May 1991
Edition A- 19/06/01
