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Abernethy. |
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Section 8 Section 6 |
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Abernethy.
Section 8
900 Culardoch
895 Creag Mhor
862 Carn Liath
829 Brown Cow Hill
821 Geal Charn
818 Carn na Drochaide
813 Sgor Mor
810 Meall a'Bhuachaille
792 Carn Ealasaid
872 Morven
840 Ben Rinnes
804 Carn Mor
781 Corryhabbie HillSection 6
Section 7
Section 9
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Meall a'Bhuachaille 810m 2654' Buachaille, Herdsman Map Geal Charn 821m 2692' White hill Map
Meall a'Bhuachaille from Coire an-t-Sneachda.
Meall a'Bhuachaille is a very familiar hill. It is the highpoint of the ridge that divides Abernethy Forest from Glen More, and , along with the ridge to Craiggowerie, is a very popular objective.
When in Glen More the hill looks high, despite the high tree line of the plantations, but as you travel up the ski road and on to Cairngorm the hill is quickly dwarfed to a mere swelling in the forest.
There is a great contrast between the lands to either side of the ridge. To the north is the huge RSPB owned Abernethy forest, now regenerating and a fine place for a day out what ever the weather, but especially valuable in foul weather. Here is a stronghold of all those Strathspey speciality birds: Scottish Crossbills , Crested tits and the famous Loch Garten Ospreys. Sadly the Capercaillie population is declining fast, possible due to relaxed predator control, or possibly a run of wet springs. This is deeply controversial country, whilst wishing to avoid the controversies here, I do hope that the population stabilises soon. In 2002 the RSPB took over management of another large scots pine wood in the area at Revack. You many notice that the forest fences have been rendered visible in a lot of places, an attempt to cut grouse mortality from flying into fences.
To the south the equally vast Rothiemurchus / Glen More Forest spreads out towards the Spey. Whilst Rothiemurchus is an old regenerating pine wood, Glen More was felled in World War I and is now a conifer plantation. Old trees remain in places, the best known being the Pass of Ryvoan. This is a meltwater channel pass with a charming lochan, An Lochan Uaine. Its green colour is said to derive from faries practice of washing their clothes in it. This pass lead through to Abernethy and is the prelude to ascents of Geal Charn and Creag Mhor as well as being part of Rathad an Meirleach, the thieves road.
Rathad an Meirleach is more a network of paths than a single route, and is the name given to the woodland ways used by Lochaber Camerons and MacIntoshes to raid the rich cattle pastures of Moray. From Tomintoul the usual routes pass through Abernethy, by Dorbrak and through Ryvoan to Glen More. Then by secret forest ways it would pass through Badenoch and Cluny country through to Glen Roy or Ardverickie. Sometimes the raiders would be harried on to higher ground, sometimes they would flee through Gleann Einich and over the Moine Mhor . One raid that went wrong is celebrated in the loch, Loch Mhic Ghille-Choil named a man killed in a battle between the thieves and their victims.
The present Glenmore Lodge is the well known Mountain sports centre and is a relatively new set of buildings on the Ryvoan track. The original Lodge is now the Loch Morlich Youth Hostel. It was a centre for mountain warfare training, like Achnacarry in Lochaber, during WWII. I was once fortunate to meet one of its Norwegian 'graduates' in a hut near Ålesund. Evidence of their activities still exist in the form of stone shelters on the plateau. There is a memorial to the Norwegian commandos near the hostel.
To the west of the Kincardine Hills ridge are the remains of Kincardine Kirk. This had a lepers window, so that those considered contagious could take part in the mass. This church was the scene of a particularly gristly massacre in the 15th century. The laird of Grant, when visiting The Stewart was murdered by the Comyns/Cummings. The Comyns were pursued by the vengeful Grants, and cornered they took sanctuary in the kirk. The Grants and Stewarts were not in any mood to respect the sanctity of holy places and fired the thatched roof. Anyone trying to escape the smoke and flames was dispatched by the waiting claymores.
Despite the best efforts of the weather, my ascent of Meall a'Bhuachaille was not a bloody affair. It was an Edinburgh University Mountaineering Club meet in January, and as is the way with EUMC winter meets, it was wet, stormy and very mild. The route was straight up and down from the Ryvoan Pass along a waymarked Forestry Commission trail. As is always the way with high level waymarked routes the path was hideously eroded, now I believe the posts have gone, and it was a thankfully rapid ascent. The wind was so great that we were leaning against it like ski-jumpers and it was very hard work walking down into it. There was hardly any snow. There was no enthusiasm in continuing along the ridge, and a hasty retreat made back to the pass.
On days like this, running the permanent orienteering course in Glen More, biking the tracks or a day with the forest birds is to be preferred. If running round Glen More beware the Laimh Dearg, the red handed spectre who is said to challenge the mortal in battle, although I believe some stories show him in a more benevolent light. Maybe he went with the old pines.
Recently, July 2004 the hill gained a certain notorienty when a school party of 39 got lost up there. In sole charge of one teacher, no navigation equipment nor waterproofs, this was a near disaster. Thank goodness they were on this rather gentle hill rather than something above the Coire Cas car park. I would say thank goodness it was summer, but midsummer 2004 was more akin to October than June. Are we seeing a rerun of 1985?
Geal Charn from near Dorbrack Lodge.
The Caiplich moors beyond Tomintoul is an ill frequented peaty tableland with no distinctive tops, the main feature being the Water of Caiplich which , as it becomes the Ailnack forms a fine gorge. North of the river is the nearest this corner has to a major hill, Geal Charn.
Most folk will of course approach the hill from the north as there is a road into Dorback Lodge from the Nethy Bridge - Tomintoul road. making this a very easy hill. Few wander further south towards the A'an. Hamish Brown tells of it being a popular navigation exercise from Glenmore Lodge. This is a route for the peat lovers amongst you, there is many a boggy brae over Tharsuinn and Bile Buidhe. It is also a long way.
The easy Dorback approaches brings its own reward. The river here is braided and the stony flats are very popular with waders. To the south east the meltwater slochd of Eag Mhor (the great cleft) gives access to the wilder parts Abernethy Forest, home of many a Scottish speciality and a regenerating pine forest. Use of Forest Lodge as a starting point should be considered by those desiring a longer day. Take the 'bins.
Dorback and the Eag Mhor were on the Rathad nan Meirlich and many a Moray beast was driven this way, no doubt a few casks either originated in these hills or passed this way in the days of the illegal stills.
My first visit was from Glenmore, pre car days. I needed to get from Aviemore to Ballater and decided to try going over Cairngorm to Derry. Despite it being September the large dump of fresh snow suggested another route. After retreat from Cairngorm the Theives road was taken through Ryvoan and the Forest to the Eag Mhor. On reaching the Grantown to Tomintoul road hitching would complete the journey over the Lecht (if walking the whole way, Glen A'an and Loch Builg would lead easily into the Gairn which can simply be followed down to Ballater.)
Approaching the slash of Eag Mhor I encountered some sullen locals in stalking tweeds (this was in pre RSPB days) . Their demeanour perked up when I enquired if they were planning to shoot near the pass. They had assumed I was off to the tops and were reluctant to challenge me ,preferring to silently resent the loss of the day's sport. When they found out that I was aware of their intentions they turned out to be very friendly.
Stalking is rarely a problem, unless you are a monomaniacal munro bagger. There are so many places without conflict. The NTS is only the start, and then there are the drove roads to follow, coastlines to explore and of course with phone answering services like Hillphones it is easy to keep going through the year. I appreciate that some folk in the field sports world hate walkers and consider us to be little better than vermin, although that is an attitude more commonly found down south. Even though some of them cannot live with us, there is no reason why we should not show them that we are co-operative and thoughtful, thus showing the true motive of 'KEEP OUT' for what it is, territorial selfishness. Fortunately, this attitude is not so common in Scotland. Conflict can now have but one outcome. Of course we must remember that we will be gone tomorrow and others have to make a living here.
On another visit to Dorback I parked a borrowed car in a quarry at the end of the public road and headed across the sandy moraines to cross the braided river. Once over, quite a crossing in bad weather, a road carved through the peat lead to 450m and less than a mile from the summit. The road is crudely bulldozed, but the scars are disappearing under the dense heather. The old pines, sadly few still alive were a striking feature by the Allt-an-Eirghe. Ahead lay a boggy bowl amongst gently swelling hills, with another road on the opposite side, the descent route.
A quick ascent alongside some butts soon led to the altitudes where the heather provides little resistance. The summit dome proved to be wet and very boggy. It was March and the damp day was enlivened by the calls of the newly returned golden plovers. The OS 1:25 000 shows a fence. In 1996 this fence was just a few weathered wooden posts.
The view to the south was one of utter desolation. The big hills were in cloud, all that could be seen was miles of peat. Sticking to the fenceline would have led to the rocky Castle of Ailnack, but I chose a return northeastwards towards the road. Dryer ground but wiry heather soon took over from saturated peat. Another party was toiling upwards, the day improving for them. Grouse were very noticeable.
All that remained was an easy two and half mile stroll back to the curlews of Dorback.
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