Rannoch Moor.
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Section 4
796 Mam na Gualainn
789 Glas Bheinn
906 Leum Uilleim
868 Beinn Pharlagain
809 Sgurr Innse
857 Cruach Innse
911 The FaraSection 5
Section 3
Section 9
Section 10a
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Across Rannoch Moor from Beinn Pharlagain
Beinn Pharlagain 868m 2758' Pharlagain, Grassy hollow (Coire Eigheach?) Map Leum Uilleim 906m 2805' William's Leap Map

This, the last of my YRC Corbetts quota in May 2000 continued the theme of being distant from a road. In this case the walk-in was easy , along good tracks and paths. There was also a definite improvement in the weather, at least until the end of the day.
It is easy to forget how far west Rannoch Station is. After leaving the overnight stop at Blair Atholl, it was nearly 40 miles to the end of the twisty B road serving Rannoch. I have not so fond memories of the difficulties in hitching this road, Schiehallion was one of the tougher Munros for me. No such trouble this time and I enjoyed the novelty of travelling a road for the first time in nearly 20 years.
Unfortunately the day started with a map reading error. I managed to find an unmarked parallel track, so wasted 20 minutes walking in towards some cows on Sron Smeur, and back out again. Once on the right road (the true 'Road to the Isles' ) progress was fast, through more cattle, past a few stalking signs, and across a rickety old bridge to gain the west bank of the Allt Eigheach. This is granite land, and that means a comfortable walking surface of crunchy gravel. There was no sign of Scottish 6 day trial damage, but they did leave a flag behind.
The Glen Lyon Hills, and slabby Allt Eigeach are seperated by Rannoch Moor.
Just past the bridge by a new forestry block, the paths divide. The Road to the Isles heads off to the left while a faint path follows the burn up past attractive waterslides, into the sanctuary of Coire Eigheach. The burn here is full of fine swimming holes, but not on a day as cold as this.
Ahead, the Mam Ban linked squat Carn Dearg and graceful Sgor Gaibhre, the wart like boulder showing well on the latter's ridge. No such view of the shy retiring Corbett however, but the greenery told of fine summer grazing in the sheiling days.
A vehicle track joined in from the right, crudely replacing the more enjoyable old pony track, soon it was time to leave its comforts and to get stuck into some heather. There was little work to be done and the granite summit was gained quickly, very quickly. While it was tempting to look at the flowers on display including some white forms of lousewort , the ascent turned into a race against a storm. I wanted the view up Loch Ericht, and something dark and nasty was sneaking up from Glen Nevis way. I won, just.
And Sgor Gaibhre, the two local Munros.
Before the hailstones I had time to enjoy a fine view of the Ardverickie Munros, Ben Alder (OK not its best side, but McCook's bay with its trees and lone cottage are well seen from here. Yesterday's hill Stob an Aonach Mhoir was lost against the bulk of Druim Uachdar , but the wastes of Rannoch were appreaciated. Nearby was the sizeable summit lochan.
Loch Ericht , Ben Alder, Druim Uachdar and Stob an Aonach Mhoir from the summit of Meall na Meoig.It was the Moor that really dominated the view, greening up and studded with lochans. No toytown trains, but a tiny matchstick viaduct. Beyond, were the heavy mob, familiar hills from a new angle. Garbh Mheall, so gentle from Lyon, a fine crest from here, outstanding against the nearby hills. Stuichd an Lochan was a crooked spire, easily its best aspect. A jumble of Orchy's with Beinn a'Chreachan rightfully dominating with its often hidden north east corrie still filled with snow. Showery weather often means clarity and even Beinn Cruachan was clearly visible above the Inveroran Grahams. After the nearby Blackmount, was the strange sight of Buachaille Etive Mor, as the snows of Stob na Doire show up better than the familiar rock of Stob Dearg. After Glencoe, the view disappeared into the storm.
View from Pharlagain: Looking towards Bridge of Orchy.The big peak is Beinn a Chreachan.The SMC book claims that there is a big cairn. Half of it was lying about, the other half still standing, but not at the true summit. McNeishistas or lightening?
I decided to return over the summit ridge rather than return to the pharlagain of Coire Eigheach. Easy going, past the schist south summit and a short steep descent to Lochan Sron Smeur. When the rain stopped, I was treated to an even better view of Rannoch Moor , full length views down Loch Laidon and the ugly Blackwater Reservoir (What fate awaits this loch now that the smelter has closed?)
The summit, and Schiehallion.
A short steep descent and it was race time again, now I was trying to get to the boat shed at the loch before an even more darker shower cloud. This time the cloud beat me as it was quite a struggle crossing the hideous bogland on the flats. I spent a few minutes hiding from the hailstones in the tin shack before braving the weather for another uphill push to the summit boulderof Sron Smeur, back in granite territory. Another good viewpoint, this time a closer view of the fresh green birchwoods on the southern side of Loch Rannoch, backed by the familiar spike of Schiehallion's good side.Schiehallion and the summit lochains.
This hill has some old birchwoods and they have been fenced, this time against cattle as well as deer. A long bogtrot brought the start track back underfoot just as the rain stopped. By now the previous day had caught up with me and I was pretty knackered, and then there was the drive home.
Oh yes, the Corbetts in a week? A success. All gathered in.
A- 03/12/01
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