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Killilan. |
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Section
12 879 Sgumain Coinntich Section
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 Glen Elchaig(and locals)
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Aonach Buidhe(from Iron Lodge)The third of the Elchaig hills continues the trend from sharp peak (Cointich) to sprawling dome. As an Elchaig hill it is endowed with a fine set of waterfalls. Southern slopes bulge above Iron Lodge, whilst the north is a collection of wild corries overlooking the bogs of Pait and the Gead Lochs. Good paths girdle this hill, making a visit to the exciting and remote north a possibility.
To the east before the great ridge of the Sgurr na Lapaich group is a deep glen, the loch here, Loch Mhoicean, is shown by the OS with an outlet at both ends. In fact there is a big burn leaving the west end, the Coire nan Each burn does not issue from the loch. This feature was responsible for much correspondance in the early days of The Angry Corrie.
Why Coire nan Each? The horses in question were those of General Monk, who's army came to grief here in the 17th century. The heavily laden horses could not cope with the bogs. Less well known is the name of part of the bad bogs below An Cruachan, Poll na Siosal, Chisholm's pool. Here, at around the same time, a cattle raiding party of Chisholms, from Strathglass met a sticky end when pursued by Kintail men. The cattle were lifted from Glen Elchaig, and rather than return directly home to Glen Cannich via Iron Lodge, the theives, seeing no pursuit,drove through Coire nan Each to the grazings around Pait. Meanwhile the true owners were using local knowledge to their advantage moving in force up the Ling, passing north of the Sgumain Cointich-Aonach Buidhe range to ambush the unsuspecting Chisholms in that most difficult of bogs. None returned down the long glens.
The East ridge above Poll na Siosal is the best way up, passing over two tops along a narrow ridge to the summit dome. This must be rarely done due to the approach distances and the flooding of upper Glen Strathfarrar. Instead as most will come in from Glen Elchaig the south ridge is the usual route. This unfortunately is rather dull. Ascents from the west path (Iron Lodge - Maol Bhuidhe), will prove more interesting.
One good day in the stormy week of the New year 2000, was seized upon for a Aonach Buidhe trip. Staying at Tigh Isabeal bunk house in Camus Luinie, I had the use of a bike, which took care of the long Glen Elchaig. Since my last visit, one of the houses was newly occupied and there was some traffic along the road. At Carnach, a keeper was out feeding the stags, and confirmed that all was OK with respect to hind culling plans, the 'flu epidemic had put a halt to this task. The bike was abandoned at Iron lodge and I took the Maol Bhuidhe track in order to gain some easy height. It soon became apparent that the burn running south from the summit had some good looking falls. A steep ridge up the west bank of the burn gave fast going and allowed inspection of the series of waterfalls. The steep eastern corries of Faochaig looked in good condition and it was obvious that there was some big snow depths.
The falls... After an easy ascent of icy snow I met the corniced ridge at the west top. The cornice was very large and provided a spectacular foreground to the wide views over the Gead Lochs, and Lurg Mhor/Bidian a'Choire Sheasgaich. It is unusual to see such a large cornice at so modest a height and so early in the winter. I felt that strange frustration looking out over the landscape, one perfect day and I could only be on one hill, so many peaks and corries to explore on such firm snow. Aonach Buidhe, was a good choice though. To get to such a remote hill in mid winter is a rare gift, I stayed up there as long as possible.
The summit, from the west top. An Socach in the background.Descent was tricky, the map does not truly show the array of crags and small corries on the lower slopes, all corniced. Easy slopes steepened into steep shutes. Even in good visibility hitting the tiny ridge down to Loch Moichean was not easy. Progress was slow despite being so easy. The firm icy crust would collapse rarely, falling forwards from such a hole could easily break a leg, not clever out here.
Tea break at Loch Mhoicean, light starting to go and cold slopes soar smoothly up to An Socach. Now there were no cattle raiders or parliamentary troops , not even the shepherds that lived at Maol Bhuidhe or flooded Lungard and Mhaim, just frost, a few hinds and silence on the still waters. The day before was one of storm, and worse to come on the morrow. Time to get out?
Loch Mhoicean. An Cruachan is the dome behind the trench of Coire nan Each. Aonach Buidhe on the left. I could follow the good path back down to Iron Lodge, but reluctant to waste being in this distant spot I chose to head back over Carn na Breabeag. Previously visits to this area were long backpacks, today I had but a day pack, freedom and speed allowing another hill, Carn na Breabeag. Not a good looker, but it turned out to be an easy climb for a fine view from its rocky summit. The true top looked down Mullardoch-Lungard, unusualy full, sometimes in summer they are drawn down so much as to be two lochs again. A half mile level ridge gave a steep look down on Glen Elchaig, the loch and Carnan Cruithneachd. All the time the realy interesting side of Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan was seen in close up to the south. A great place for a sunset.
Steep but easy grass slopes led to the bulldozed track from Iron Lodge to the end of Loch Lungard. This is hideously steep, but it is easy to pick up the old pony track by the burn. The walk ended in the footsteps of marauding Chisholms, John Boa of Lungard, and the nameless accordion player who often walked from Benula to play at Killilan ceilidhs, finer steps than the tracks of an Argo cat.
Memories of long walks in the rain down Glen Elchaig were banished as gravity and the bike helped me home. In the fast gathering dusk, it was a challenge to avoid cows and stags in the fast descent of the glen.
More on Aonach
Buidhe
The seven mile detour up Loch Long to Camas Luinie is always worthwhile, if not for the novelty of seeing a small crofting settlement inland. Whilst Camus Luinie hangs on , Killilan has become a bit of a ghost town, older maps show a public road, school and post office here, but they have all gone, replaced by a locked gate and sightless windows. A faint echo of the clearances.
As you approach Kilillan the scene is dominated by the Sgumain Coinntich - Beinn Kilillan horseshoe. The usual ascent route is by a pony track up the burn cleaving the two hills. This path starts in Kilillan. but the road in is now closed at the Camus Luine turn. There is ample car parking here. On reaching the pass at the head of the corrie a steep crag must be passed in order to gain the summit ridge. Care is required here if descending by this route or continuing on towards Ben Killilan. The crag continues to the east, forming the headwall of the magnificent Coire Domhain.
Sgumain Cointich across Glen Elchaig.
To the south of Coinntich and its neighbour Faochaig lies the long Glen Elchaig, long a favourite of mine. Once known as the access route to the Falls of Glomach, it is now very quiet, for not only has the road to the falls been closed to vehicular traffic by the Kilillan Estate, the glen has lost its previous function as a great cross country trade route. Both Glen Strathfarrar and Glen Cannich are blocked by huge Hydro reservoirs, impounded in the 1950's . The only through traffic now is that of the stravaiging hill basher bound for the great ridges amongst the new lochs, whilst earlier this century folk would walk this way from Pait and Strathmore just to do the messages. Often it was the route of their last journey, carried to the MacRae burial ground of Clachan Duich in Kintail
Glen Elchaig is unmolested, there are some modest conifer plantations and the road sees some tar put on it from time to time, but it still remains the home of the Highland cattle, deer and wheeling eagles. I once met somebody in Glen Elchaig.
The north is moated by the River Ling. Its headwaters almost meeting those of the Elchaig beyond Aonach Buidhe and for much of its length a formidable obstacle. Running southwards from the river, into the heart of these hills is Coire Domhain a huge deer sanctuary bound in crags, this made a considerable impression when first seen from Sgumain Cointeach. From the North, from the ever present torridonian fangs that line the background to Attadale, Sgumain Coinnteach and Faochaig can provide a puzzle. Looking south these hills make a very powerful statement and not being well known Munros, can cause confusion when trying to work out the view.
Coinntich(pointy) and Faochaig (sprawly) from thesummit of Aonach Buidhe.On a damp October morning I made my way through the glaur of Camas Luinie's cow pastures up Glen Elchaig. The plan was to cross the swollen Elchaig at the Coille Righ footbridge , backtrack towards Kilillan and tackle Sgumain Coinntich from the Ghlas Coire. The bridge was still reliable and is a fine girdered affair. Since my last visit the cottage of Coille Righ has been extensively modernised. The path up into the bowl of the Ghlas Coire had been widened for all terrain vehicles, but still provided fast access to the corrie. To the sounds of roaring stags I made an easy ascent up the steep southern slopes to the rotting trig point on top of Sgumain Coinntich. Despite being so far west the hill was snowy at the top but sadly the precipitation was sleet, rather than snow. A view of sorts was available. Coinntich has reputation for being a good viewpoint, from Sgritheall through Skye, Applecross and Torridon. To the East dominating all was the impossibly snowy Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, with a plume, noted for it's Himalaya impressions, Ceathreamhnan always appears several times higher than reality. Returning towards Sgritheall are the jumble of Kintail peaks and the Inverinate Forest, somewhere behind a passing shower.
By now I had discovered that I had left my food bag behind, so was reduced to attacking emergency stock. I could not make my mind up about making the commitment of taking in Faochaig. The easy descent to Elchaig was so very tempting. Deciding to let the weather make my mind up, I headed off towards the broad ridge leading eastward around the great corrie. The weather picked up and at that moment the rolling plateau and easy slopes suddenly ended. It was a Seana Bhraigh moment as the ground plunged into the depths of Coire Domhain. At this moment I chose to trip and broke my ski-pole. The appearance of the sun cancelled this setback and I carried on over the bumps towards Faochaig.
Further into the Ling catchment is the sprawling lump of Faochaig. Although flat topped, and ordinary looking from where people are, the hill has infrequently glimpsed secrets. It shares Coire Domhain with Sgumain Cointeach and the flank falling into this corrie is very steep. There is possible winter climbing on this face, but lines are few. To the east is the more promising Coire a Chadha Ruaidh Mor. This corrie is well seen by anyone on the path between the Loch Cruoshie and Glen Elchaig. It is very steep andhas some interesting lines, from sprawling buttresses to easy gullies. North of this corrie is a well built stalker's path. Useful if combining the hill with Aonach Buidhe. The Glen Elchaig side has a fine gorge above Carnach. The path here is the best way up on any day trip. Upper Glen Elchaig continues in the same fine form as the lower glen, the scenery here more dramatic with Loch na Leitrich and the ever present Sgurr na Ceathreamhnan dominating distant views.
From Glen Elchaig, paths radiate in all directions, making this a well kent place for stravaigers. However now, because of the drowned glens, much of traffic is north-south.
Faochaig from the south, across Glen Elchaig.
Before climbing Faochaig I had traversed the ridge from Sgumain Cointeach, over some bumps and bogs. The ridgegave a rare distant view of the Falls of Glomach backed by Sgurr Gaorsaic, looking independent from Ceathreamhnan for once. Further back Ciste Dhubh was auditioning for Paramount. One big bump and I was clear for the long trudge up Faochaig. It rained. The two hundred metre snowy plod to the plateau went well, and then came the familiar dilemma, where was the summit. The nearest cairn, on a rocky outcrop ,was so tempting and shown as the summit by the OS, but what about that bump over there? It was now sleeting, that horrible sticky sleet which wets you more than anything, and steals your heat as it melts. Grateful for modern waterproofs, I emolished the last of the soggy chocolate and decided to trust the OS and not go round the other tops.
A rapid descent below the snowline, it was still raining, led to a real treat. Instead of the widened all terrain vehicle track, I found an intact pony track, steeply dropping into the gorge of the Allt Domhain (not the one draining the great northern corrie). This gorge was well wooded, but sadly all the birches were old, no regeneration being possible. The path clung to very steep slopes and rapidly descended into the depths, emerging at Carnoch. It was now raining very heavily.
Carnach had changed. On my first visit there were several derelict buildings. Now there was a neat renovated cottage, like the one that replaced Iron Lodge. All painted in the estate cream livery.
Six miles of Glen Elchaig was to follow, steadily, Carnan Cruithneachd changed shape. Progress was measured by ticking of the very full waterfalls , Glomach of course being invisible in its ravine. As the light faded, the rain gave one last downpour to guarantee that I got wet, then red sunshine lit up the heights. Its always the way, at the end of the day you are in a glen, in shadow , while the tops enjoy the setting sun. Sometimes boulders budded off stags as I disturbed a scratching deer, once across the river I was able to watch a fight. Throughout the glen, the roaring was continuous. As it got dark I crossed the Coille Righ footbridge again. Passing the deserted cottage and byre, I was suddenly aware of movement,I was sure that I saw a face duck down behind the cow house window. Possibly someone getting out of the weather and worried about 'authority' or just my imagination aided by poor light. I passed by on to the muddy path back through the puddles and cows, back to Camas Luinie.
Camas Luinie now has a bunkhouse and the ever helpful Willie Nicholson hires out bikes. Not only is this one of the best bunkhouses going, the bikes and the road up Glen Elchaig being well surfaced means a quick way into Aonach Buidhe, Faochaig, and would help with Ben Dronaig. Watch out for the cows!
More on Faochaig
A* 19th November 2004
