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The Trossachs to Balquidder. |
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Section
1 Ben
Donich Section
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 Steeeeeep! Stob a'Choin from Inverlochlarig
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Some of you might remember 'Dr Finlay's Casebook (1960s version) Sadly I am old enough to remember it. Well Ben Ledi is the hill that featured in the credits, and is very much the pet hill of Callander, where the series was filmed. It also gives its name to the mighty Ben Ledi Café in Callander, a traditional chippy stop on the way north for many. Ah the memories of 3 pints and a bag of chips stuffed into the half hour allowed by the university bus.
Ben Ledi is a much loved hill. It visible from over much of the Lowlands and is very much an outpost of the Highlands, and a welcome landmark for the northbound traveler.
Once there was a tourist route up the south ridge, but this has lost popularity as the lower slopes are now enclosed, improved farmland or forestry. Now a well worn path runs up from a car park, sign posted 'Stank Road' , at the mouth of Loch Lubnaig. The hill can also be attractively climbed from Glen Finglas behind Brig o'Turk , a route that is going to improve with time, the glen is being restored to woodland by the Woodland Trust.
I started a five hill, four corbett, traverse with Ben Ledi, aiming to finish on the fearfully steep and intimidating Stob a Choin. After spending the night in the Stank car park the hideously eroded tourist path led through the forest and out into open moorland, before improving and joining the old route on the south ridge. Soon I passed a tent perched on a shoulder, by the path. Soon after I reached the cross marking the summit. The cross was erected to commemorate a member of the Killin Mountain Rescue Team, killed in a helicopter crash on Ben More. It may have another purpose, Ledi by tradition is a Druid holy mountain, I expect it is still revered by Pagans to this day, a midsummer ascent could be interesting.
Another tragedy associated with this hill was the loss of most of a funeral party in the waters of Lochan nan Corp, where I had a misty second breakfast en route to the next hill, Benvane. The ice broke in a winter storm all but wiping out the clan Kessanach beneath the ice. Its a tiny lochan but would have been the lowest pass for the laden party heading for the burial ground by Loch Lubnaig. By now I was passing into the domain of the next hill, the less well known Benvane.
Beinn Bhan or Beinn Mheadhoin? The OS now states it is the former, white hill ,and the hill does have a small snow holding corrie, again a landslip feature just below the summit. This or the pale grasses may account for the name. While Ledi belongs to Callander , Benvane is Strathyre's hill, along with its foothill Beinn an-t-Sidhean. Unfortunately any approach from this direction requires some forest bashing, but it is possible. I recomend the Harvey's map for this exercise. Most climb this hill from Brig o'Turk or from Ballimore in Glen Buckie.
Glen Buckie, now a quiet backwater was the scene of one of the last acts of the '45. Dr. Archie Cameron had returned to Scotland in the early 1750's hoping to raise support for a possible last ditch coup against George II. He was captured in the glen, and was later hanged in London. The last Jacobite to be killed for treason.
I was on a big day and Benvane made a good pair with Ledi. The weather improved as I approached the final pull up the narrowish ridge bounding the summit bowl. The hill is grassy all over (except the forested slopes above Loch Lubnaig) and provides little resistance, but the final approach to the summit has a certain grace. I would like to see this under snow.
By now I was meeting folk, who had used a bulldozed road up from Glen Finglas. This gives out onto the ridge with Ledi and provides an easy ascent without the forestry complications that are found on the Strathyre approaches.
Benvane from Beinn an t-Sidhean, Strathyre.
From Benvane to Ceann na Baintigherna is a perfectly feasible walk, aided by a shepherds road which is met at the pass between Glen Buckie and Glen Finglas. This passes through some boggy ground and although unsightly enables fast progress. It was left for the ascent of Cnoc Odhar and Beinn Bhreac, following the summit ridge. This felt like Donald bagging, the hills and vegetation being most reminiscent of the Southern Uplands. The view down to Loch Katrine was definitely highland however and I was treated to a view, with 'The Sir Walter Scott' working back and forth up the water. Lesser craft of course are not permitted to sully Glasgow's drinking water.
By the time I reached the shoulder of Ceann na Baintigherna I was tiring. Having worked out a likely bivvy spot I dumped the pack and sprung up beside a messy collection of fences to the trig. Despite the flat light the immensity of Stob Binnien was appreciated, across the Balquidder trench. The night was still and glorious, even the midges could not ruin it. I watched the light go with Ben Ledi shown up against Edinburgh and Falkirk's streetlights and had a great view south to the Campsies. The midges were bad enough at 700m , the glens would be uninhabitable. The menace of midgies cannot be understated, they will drive you insane. Nothing is more feared than the dropping of the wind on a summer evening.
Ceann na Baintigherna is the name given to the rocky bluff over looking Loch Voil. The summit has no name, on the map but locally it is known as the Surveyor's Peak as it has a trig point. It is also the highest point of a sprawling mass called Beinn Bhreac, which is probably just as good a name. Beinn means a big thing so this name would cover more than the wee top by the words on the map.
The weather stayed good overnight and a midge free warm breakfast was enjoyed from inside the pit. Bivvying is not always like this so this occasion was savoured to the full. Next stop, after another bump was the steep and forbidding Stob Breac followed by the dreaded Stob a Choin
Ceann Na Bantigherna from Beinn an t_Sidhean, Strathyre.By now the hills were becoming more rocky, not just the rolling sheepwalks of the previous day, and Stob Breac presented a steep face to all sides, a hint of weakness on its south ridge, An Stuchd. This of course was as far from the summit as possible, so a long out and back was required. At least no pack, Oh one other thing this hill is almost surrounded by trees and is not grazed, so long grass is a feature above the tree line. A pleasant alternative approach to this hill would be from Loch Katrine, leaving a bike at Strone. There being no vehicular access to the north of Loch Katrine. This could explain why these hills, so close to population centres, are so quiet. This is especially noticeable as the Trossachs are usualy heaving with visitors.
An Stuchd presents a problem with not one but two high fences , square across the ridge, then a mile and a half of trackless ridge heading for the heart of the Crianlarich Munros. By now I was in real hill country, and many would be toiling up their slopes by now from Inverlochlarig, my eventual destination.
Stob a Choin, from the south ridge.
Now this is a hill. For years I had dreaded the toil up its impossibly steep grass and now I was to backpack over it. As usual it's height wins over quality and it is largely ignored despite its obvious quality. The steepness does the rest, there as yet no paths upon Stob a'Choin. A further defence is that it occupies the junction of 3 1:50000 OS sheets.
My first Munro, was Beinn Tulaichean, even then I was keen to get at this fine hill as soon as possible, having seen it across the glen. It took 18 years and another ascent of Tulaichean before I made it. Its easy to forget what lies tucked away in obscure corners, although many may forget this hill on purpose. It really is fearsome, although Tulaichean from Inverlochlarig itself is a pretty evil toil.
The southern side of the hill is less forbidding than its more familiar Inverlochlarig side, but is still hard going, involving a traverse of the east top and a long descent and reascent to the rocky summit. To get to Inverlochlarig involved putting myself up against the steep northern side, and avoiding the gullies that cleave this face. The descent was nearly all on grass, and is one of the steepest slopes I have walked upon.
The headwaters of the Forth were a welcome sight after the downward toil. I was grateful for the help of a Leki pole here.
Cruach Ardrain and Beinn Tulaichean (My first M*nr*) from Stob a' ChoinAfter fording the river, bridges are available, the long walk ended with a stroll down to the farm yard at Inverlochlarig, one time home of Rob Roy McGregor. The hills here were the refuge for the 'Children of the Mist' when they were proscribed. Steep slopes were not their first concern.
The Munro baggers were wandering in from the big stuff to the north, so getting a lift back to the Stank Road was very easy. The couple who gave me a lift had not heard of Stob a Choin, but had noticed it in their view. The car park was full yet hardly any of their occupants had strayed south of the river.
More on Stob
a Choin here
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